Valves- All you need to know about Valves

Archive for May, 2009

The thermostat valve or the normal flow valve?

Turn your central heating on and see which pipe gets hot first, this is the flow pipe into the radiator. This is the end you fit the Thermostatic Valve with the head vertical. If there is a lack of space then install the valve with the head in a horizontal position but on the return pipe. Failure to do so will give rise to a chattering valve when the head reacts to the temperature and starts to shut down. Multi directional Valves mean they can be fitted to either end of the radiator as long as you follow the guidelines above. Fitting the valve horizontally or vertically on the wrong end will only become a noisy nuisance.

Good Luck.

WHat is that valve for on the compressor of my 1986 Chrysler? This must be a standard thing on most FWD 80's era MOPAR made cars, so is it the imput for the low pressure side of the AC unit?

Thanks.

Your question is a bit vague, but if you are talking about the valve that just sticks out of the compressor with nothing really hooked to it, that should be the pressure relief valve, to release pressure should the high side get clogged and go over pressure.

I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota with a 318, bored out .030, 9.5-1 compression, lightweight TRW pistons, balanced and weight matched Eagle rods, stock crank, balanced rolling assembly, Crane Compucam 2000 mild cam, 1.6 roller rockers, heavy valve springs, Mopar double roller timing chain with a spring-loaded slack adjuster, Mopar M1 intake manifold, soon to be getting a opened-up throttle body. its a 95 so it has the higher pressure fuel pump. It also has Pacesetter headers, dual 2-1/2 inch exhaust, Mopar Performance ECM, Accel coil, huge gauge champion truck spark plug wires, and double platinum plugs. My question is with all that nifty stuff, what size injectors should I use? I have been told the stockers are 19lb/hr, thats whats on it now, but I have been told the 24lb'ers are a good upgrade for those motors, but I have also been told that the 24's are only good up to 350 hp, or something. I figure maybe 30's, but I want a second opinion or two. Those things are not cheap. Any ideas?

Duration is not the only factor you have to consider when choosing fuel injectors. The amount of fuel delivered in that duration is the major factor. This is where the lb/hr figures come in to play. Seeing as how you are running 9.5 to 1 compression (obviously built to run on lower octane gasoline) , I would consider continuing to run the the stock fuel injectors. Your engine control module (ECM) should be more than up to the task of handling the modifications, as airflow should still be within the OEM parameters, even with a bored out TB. On another note, if you're having the TB opened up wider, make sure you get the intake matched to the new bore, and consider having the runners in the intake opened up as well. A bottle-necked induction system will in most cases perform worse than a stock setup.

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer and I was told that my valve needed a new lift. I was told that, but was not told what it was. I was told that without the lift for the valve I can still drive the car problem free, but that I should get it taken care of sooner or later. Is there a mechanic in the Yahoo galaxy that can give me some insight? Thanks…

Ok, I assume they told you you needed a new "valve lifter"! This should not be big deal if they know what they are doing! Valve lifters are in contact with camshaft, and push pushrods up to push rocker arm, - which pushes valve down and open! sIt requires removing the intake manifold and taking out lifter and putting in new one, — I think it is possible that there is a tool that may actually be able to reach down inside (with valve cover removed)-and pull it out — after pushrod is removed! I have seen or used these on other engines before, but it depends on what engine you have , — you might even have an engine with overhead camshaft, in which case it is easy to get to as it is on head!